Grand Capucin | Via degli Svizzeri and O Sole Mio #2

It’s August, we’ve both spent some pretty intense and satisfying last few weeks work-wise, and now the desire is to go for some nice rides together, and get our hands on the rock.

We have several goals on the “wish list” but not all of them are feasible due to the weather forecast, which turns out to be rather unstable. The first destination we had in mind was Switzerland. The truth is that we have been aiming for it since August last year. But last year, partly due to the weather, partly because already satisfied with the routes climbed in Val Masino, we never got there. And this year will end the same, with a change of direction towards Val d’Aosta.

It goes without saying that the possibilities in Val d’Aosta are almost infinite, ranging from high mountains to rock routes, but Marco has only one obelisk in mind, the Grand Capucin.

I’m very excited, I’ve never climbed on the granite of Mont Blanc and I think to myself that the time has come to do it!

The Grand Capucin is the highest among the satellites, it reaches 3838m altitude and the route, or rather the union of the two routes that we decided to follow which are “the Swiss route” with exit on “O sole mio” , have 300 meters of vertical travel starting from the official attack on the “terrace of the Swiss”, plus about 150 meters of plinth from the base. There would be two possibilities to get to the start of the route, go along the steep (and now dry and stony) channel to the left of the Grand Cap or start climbing from its base, where the routes of the imposing east face start. We opted for this second option, to avoid finding ourselves in a potential flow of stones.

We know we have chosen a great classic and, as such, the risk is of finding a lot of people on the wall. So we decide to sleep at the Rifugio Torino, and leave at 4.30. In Turin we find Marco’s friends and colleagues, we meet some guys and couples of mountaineers. The mood is beautiful and it is pleasant to see the enthusiasm in people’s faces, happy to be there and to set a night alarm to pursue their projects.

It’s pitch dark, you can see the fronts of the climbers who preceded us, some headed towards the Jorasses or the Rochefort ridge, others are walking in the Cirque Maudit, perhaps towards the Arete du Diable? Towards the Grand Capucin we are the first group. Once we reach the attack, the sky behind us timidly begins to lighten. The temperature is perfect but the rock is still cold.

We follow a clear line of cracks which in two/three pitches takes us around the corner, towards the south face. From here Marco shouts to me “when the rope runs out, leave” and in less than an hour we are at the Swiss terrace. The sun is about to illuminate the first pitch. Perfect timing, and I can’t wait to take off my shell and feel some warmth on my hands. Behind us there is a group of Spanish guys, Gaiska and Sergie. They are friends of Philipp Klein, a Spanish photographer who we finally had the fortune of meeting and getting to know in person with a pleasant chance meeting in Turin. We will share with them the entire ascent route, as well as the entire electrifying descent!

The first pitches are nothing short of magnificent. Incredible rock, spectacular setting. Degree of fun and plaisir. The morning sun with its warm light makes the crystals that make up this granite even redder. I immediately lose track of the shots. When you’re having fun you only think about climbing, time flies and in fact, perhaps it’s a shame to realize that we’re “already” halfway there. Even though we had taken it easy, both to enjoy the climb and to film, we are already at the crossroads between via degli Svizzeri and O sole mio. Unfortunately the pitches above are still in the shade, and will remain so. On the other hand, you can’t have everything: green light and shots in the sun. It’s always a game of compromises 😉

I mentally prepare myself to lose the feeling in my hands. The route becomes more vertical, the holds smaller and still damp to the touch. Marco continues confidently but taking all the time necessary to protect himself properly. He will certainly be more used to cold hands than me, but not even he is immune to it. I talk to Gaiska and Sergie when they arrive at the stop, also wearing a down jacket and shell, and suffering from a “puto frio”!

Temperature aside, the three 6a/6a+ pitches are wonderful, slabs interspersed with a few cracks, a little air under our feet that is starting to make itself felt and a panorama behind us that is just waiting to be looked at. I wonder why we waited until today to come here. However, the environment makes itself felt even when it is not observed. Stones ranging from the size of a microwave to the size of a washing machine fall from the Tour Ronde. It’s scary how the mountain is crying and destroying itself. The roar of a collapse forces us to stop because it is so strong, it seems attached to us.